"InfinityAero" (infinityaero)
07/20/2016 at 19:29 • Filed to: None
1
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"InfinityAero" (infinityaero)
07/20/2016 at 19:29 • Filed to: None | 1
| 18 |
Got the shock and spring off one side. The other side— can’t get the damn thing free. I’ve removed the nut from the bottom shock bolt, but the bolt just refuses to push through, even though it’ll turn. I got the other shock off by removing a couple nuts that hold the lower shock mount on, but one of them is too seized to do that same trick on the other side. This is how 2 hour jobs turn into 20...
EDIT: looks like a universal suggestion is hit it with a torch— never done that before, will have to borrow my buddy’s and give that a try!
Die-Trying
> InfinityAero
07/20/2016 at 19:35 |
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hammer............
edit: reread the seized part...........acetylene torch.....................
shop-teacher
> InfinityAero
07/20/2016 at 19:39 |
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You need heat.
Jayvincent
> InfinityAero
07/20/2016 at 19:43 |
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C-clamp? put an oversize socket over the bolt-head, c-clamp base on the bolt open end, tighten. Unless there’s (usually) no physical access to fit the clamp in, in which case I recommend prayer and fasting. Or swearing and hammering, whichever fits your personal belief-system. Good luck
BayAreaMiataBoi
> InfinityAero
07/20/2016 at 19:43 |
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Put a nut back on the end of the threads to prevent mushrooming the threads.
Soak the whole thing overnight in PB Blaster or equivalent.
Beat on the nut with a BFH (big fine hammer); the bigger the better.
(I use a 32-oz hand sledge, ever since I saw the miraculous work a 28-oz hammer made of separating rusted-on ball joints on a '69 Mustang.)
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InfinityAero
> Jayvincent
07/20/2016 at 19:59 |
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yeah, it’s an unfortunate setup. There’s no space to get a socket over the bolt head (had to loosen the nut with a crowfoot). I was attempting with a wrench slightly wider than the bolt, but even with that I’m just a little too far off being dead on the bolt for it to work. The hub is in the way of hammering directly at it so I have to use a hammer extension at a 30 degree angle. Always had better results with the cursing and swearing than the prayer and fasting myself...
MonkeePuzzle
> InfinityAero
07/20/2016 at 20:04 |
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try loosely reinstalling some of fhe other bolts. occasionally if the piece is no longer supported it will imperceptably tweak to the side putting pressure on the last bolt.
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Die-Trying
> InfinityAero
07/20/2016 at 20:05 |
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any pictures?? ..........pickle fork????
e36Jeff now drives a ZHP
> BayAreaMiataBoi
07/20/2016 at 20:11 |
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I second this. I am a large fan of the 5 pound hammer in my “stuck object toolkit.”
Noah - Now with more boost.
> InfinityAero
07/20/2016 at 20:14 |
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I know I’m commenting post edit but YES. Torches are unbelievable miracle working machines. We wouldn’t have been able to swap my friends’ XJ suspension without a torch, no way
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Die-Trying
> e36Jeff now drives a ZHP
07/20/2016 at 20:17 |
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pickle-forks, and “helper”wrenches too.
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InfinityAero
> Die-Trying
07/20/2016 at 20:38 |
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Pictures uploaded. First pic is looking down over the brake disc.
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Die-Trying
> InfinityAero
07/20/2016 at 21:20 |
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might be time to get out the cheaters, like wonder bars, and lady foots pickleforks .........take the bind off the bolt with a jack under the shock, and get mean with the bolt..........
thats a tough angle youre working with, to be sure........
brianbrannon
> InfinityAero
07/20/2016 at 22:22 |
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The torch won’t heat the part that's frozen until you burn out all the rubber. Just cut the bottom eye off then you can get vice grips on the sleeve
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InfinityAero
> Die-Trying
07/20/2016 at 23:20 |
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Yeah, it’s a really unfortunate angle. The axle is right underneath— which if I’m pulling that I’m far far far from just pulling a single bolt— I’d have to do all 4 trailing arms and all the brake lines. I can’t get in between the back side of the bolt and the mounting plate so no way to get a pickle fork in between the bolt head... but I did try using it as a pry bar. Also tried using a wedge that I drove down with a hammer. Seems the bolt is so seized to the bushing that hammering seems to be pushing the whole mounting assembly apart slightly. I think I’m going to have to borrow my friend’s torch and hit it hard enough to free the bolt from the bushing....
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InfinityAero
> brianbrannon
07/20/2016 at 23:23 |
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Good thought, I’d given some consideration to cutting off the bottom eye... that would let me access the bolt with a the tie rod separator I picked up. I think my buddy has a sawzall— that should do the trick...
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Die-Trying
> InfinityAero
07/21/2016 at 00:20 |
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yikes, what a mess............. best of luck with the torch.........
sometimes you just got to get mean with the junk.........
edit :...............
say, if youre replacing the shocks...........you might just back up a few yards, and punt........just use a grinder with a cutoff wheel, or a chisel, whatever you can manage, and cut the hoop that holds the bushing......... or cut the bolt up with a grinder and cut off wheel.
Ross Kraz
> InfinityAero
07/21/2016 at 10:18 |
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I had the same issue when I did mine. I ended up taking a chizel to the shock eye, found that the bolt was completely fused to it, and had to cut the bolt as well. Then I got some new bolts. I thought about going stainless so that it wouldn’t seize again, but ended up getting grade 5 for the strength and I won’t be taking it off again, anyway.
You most likely will not be able to use this bolt anymore because the threads won’t exist, so use whatever method necessary to remove it.
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InfinityAero
> Ross Kraz
07/21/2016 at 10:31 |
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Yeah, that’s basically my thought at this point. My coworker just offered to let me borrow his oscillating saw— I’m going to use that to cut the eye off the shock, then use either that or my cutting wheel tool to cut the bolt on both sides of the eye. That should allow it to drop right out, and I’ll be able to push through the remaining bolt pieces; pop in the new shock and bolt, and I’ll be good to go.